Cooking: Simply and Well, for One or Many

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Jeremy Lee Cooking: Simply and well, for one or many by Jeremy Lee

But a scrape of the peeler reveals a surprising whiteness that will discolour swiftly after being pared. This month, Mina and Elena met with Jeremy Lee, chef and proprietor at Quo Vadis, at his home in east London.Jeremy’s renown as a gifted teacher shows by his giving space in his professional kitchen to young people keen to learn how to cook before they leave and launch their own establishments. We gave the Michelin stars a run for their money, and an enlightened group of restaurant reviewers – like Fay Maschler, Matthew Fort – helped it gain traction.

Jeremy Lee’s book to snail racing and ES DINING SPECIAL: From Jeremy Lee’s book to snail racing and

Add the cold butter and salt, then, using your fingertips, work the butter into the flour until it resembles coarse crumbs. He originally fell in love with TOAST Menswear, he says, because they took inspiration from the traditional Scottish, Cornish, Welsh, Irish and Breton garb he so loves, from “the great Donegal woollens” to a white shirt he still has, which “harks back to Edwardian tailoring, when everything was handmade and someone in the village would unpick it and make the pattern.At the end of the hour, lower the temperature to 100C fan/gas mark ½ and bake for a further 20 minutes, until golden and crusted. Remove the cake from the oven, press down lightly with a frying pan one last time, then let sit for 5 minutes. Divide into two, wrapping one half tightly in greaseproof paper for use another day, storing in an airtight container in the freezer for up to 3-4 months. It also came very naturally because somehow I was so fortunate to dodge the ferocious bullet of working in restaurants where you were constantly pummelled. Cooks being naturally curious creatures, we’re always excited to explore and to try different things.

Jeremy Lee. The Plan, How We Got Here. NWO Australia Jeremy Lee. The Plan, How We Got Here. NWO Australia

Regulars at Quo Vadis, the central London restaurant where he has just celebrated ten years as chef-proprietor, will be familiar with his open arms greeting and ability to make you feel so at home within its walls that it feels rude to be in Soho and not stop by.Having worked for traditionalists such as Simon Hopkinson, Alistair Little and Terence Conran, Lee is a great proponent of the beauty of simple things done well.

Jeremy Lee Chef - Great British Chefs Jeremy Lee Chef - Great British Chefs

A glimpse at Lee’s bookshelves provided within the book give as good as clue as any to the kind of chef he is and the type of cooking that inspires him. Lightly salt the water, bring to the boil and simmer until the salsify is tender (anywhere between 15 and 25 minutes), having a care not to overcook, lifting more slender salsify from the pan to allow any larger ones to cook fully. Jeremy Miner began his career in June 2001 at Pinnacle Security as a sale associate for home security systems. Others cover broader themes such as biscuits, fish, impromptu suppers, offal, pies, salads, vegetables, soup and sweet somethings. There are sections on the usefulness and frugality of breadcrumbs, whether black olive crumbs to serve with everything, impromptu puddings like peaches in wine with bay leaves, pea dishes galore, superb versions of classics like chocolate St Emilion and pommes Anna, big dishes to serve a few such as marinated chicken with roast pumpkin salad, and essentials like a wild garlic purée.

But Lee had long felt a volume of his own work may be simmering away, and when approached by Fourth Estate in about 2016 he knew it was time to make it real, eventually. This feels a great basis to start understanding ingredients, how best to use them and what goes together rather than just blindly following recipes.