Finish Line Wet Lube Cross Country Lubricant

Product Information

Do you need 6 chains for multiple bikes or do chains not last as long with waxing vs oiling? I'm guessing two chains is a good idea as unlike oil, you can't wax a chain in 30secs before a ride? Looked at some standard grease in a hardware shop at the weekend - decided to send off for some TF2, a fraction of the quantity, because it's labelled as "for bikes". And if you’re wondering why you can’t use WD40 or GT85, they’re water displacement products and should only really be used after cleaning your bike and before correct lubrication. They have some lubricating properties, and plenty of uses on bikes and round the house, but they're not up to the job of keeping a bike chain properly protected.

So, I have been adding drop wise to the top of the roller for a few years now, the thing that I discovered was that if I did a small drop on each roller and then after doing the full chain doing another drop, it seemed to aid penetration and staying power. With overnight set up and wiping down before riding. I might lose a little more on the rag but it seems to work for me.

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Argus Tuft: Dissolve a rounded teaspoon of grated paraffin wax in 100ml of shellite (I don't know what it's called over there – Stoddard's Solvent?). Using pliers, carefully pull the nozzle out of a R&R lube bottle and refill using a small funnel. Close enough to free. A small amount of moly or bearing grease – less is more – makes it even better. If you’re riding in dry and dusty conditions, then Finish Line dry lube will keep your drive train running smoothly and shifting well every time. The advanced formula means the lube goes on wet and creates a wax-like barrier over your chain links which keeps the dust and grime out. The best bicycle chain lubes get right into the links of your chain to lubricate it, and then stay there. The latest chain lubes include fiendishly clever additives which allow them to coat metal surfaces without attracting crud. They're expensive, but arguably worth the money if you're running an expensive transmission and want to prolong its life. FINISH LINE Starter Kit 1-2-3 - Grunge Brush w/4 oz Degreaser and 2 oz Dry Lube (On display in Maintenance » Cleaning Products)

Oh and that was periodically degreasing and washing the chain completely and then relubing with car full synthetic oil. I wouldn't do it on a spendy chain but then I wouldn't use those spendy chains on a bike that gets taken out in all the shitty conditions the UK weather will throw at you. Argus Tuft: One or two weeks between lubes is about right, maybe 300-400km.When it starts to make the whirring sound. Argus Tuft replied to hawkinspeter: Ta HP - I found it worked as well as the bought stuff.I've moved on to using a home made "candle" of wax with a dash of grease applied to a chain freshly warmed with a heat gun. Any dirt seems to fall away. No cleaning required. Use a suitable heat shield between chain and wheel. Graphenlube does appear to reduce friction, and it's certainly pretty tenacious in real-world conditions. It's very expensive, but so are a lot of other bike-related things. If you're the kind of person who looks to buy a bit of extra performance, then here's another thing you can spend your hard-earned on. For the sort of savings you can expect I wouldn't say it was particularly good value, but you might have snaffled all the low-hanging fruit already, or you might not care. And it probably is the best lube I've tried.”

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Aerodynamic, or wind drag, is the biggest obstacle to going fast. Friction in the drivetrain also contributes to overall drag but a modern drivetrain is in the region of 90-98% efficient, depending on the condition of the chain and several other factors. Mungecrundle: Having run out of dry lube, I used some Wurth motorcycle chain wax and have been using it ever since. Dries in a few minutes, keeps the chain clean and running smoothly. Only shortcoming is that as a spray lube you need to be careful that it doesn't get to where it isn't supposed to be. Finance is subject to application, financial circumstances and borrowing history. Performance Cycling Limited FRN: 720557 trading as Tredz are authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. We are a credit broker not a lender – credit is subject to status and affordability and is provided by Mitsubishi HC Capital UK PLC. Terms & Conditions Apply. Rian_constant replied to PRSboy: Wax-based lubricants are the first choice for summer bikes. Advantages of wax without the hassle and dangers of melting wax. Reapplying is done in less than a minute.

I use RnR gold, RnR red, Muc Off wet, Muc Off dry. Pretty lazy cleaning and applying but when used even the filthiest chain sets smooth out.Previous to MB I used the molten wax routine which was great but a lot of work, not worth the hassle. I want to spend time riding my bike, not tinkering with it. I've now switched over to using DryFluid which is a special slide lubricant that although expensive lasts really well and is easy to apply and stays nice and clean. Use Wet Lube when you ride hard and long. Proven performance for 100-plus mile rides, muddy off-road conditions, long rainy commutes, and foggy salt-air coastal climates. A heavier, wet-style lubricant that requires a little more attention to drivetrain cleanliness, but delivers the ultimate in lubricity and protection. Thorough cleaning seems more important than choice of chainlube. You can wipe the chain down till you're blue in the face but the damaging grit is on the INSIDE. Argus Tuft: I'm with bikespud. Wax every time. Boeshield (T47?), White Lightning – It's just wax dissolved in solvent. It even says as much on the Boeshield bottle. Make your own and use heaps. It's almost free!