Vitax Conifer & Shrub Fertiliser,

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If the soil in the planting area is compacted, dig it over to loosen it – this will encourage the conifers’s roots to spread out. With heavy or sandy soils, dig in organic matter, such as garden compost, over a larger area (rather than in the planting hole) to improve the soil structure. Conifers are highly adaptable, usually grown for the colour, texture and structural diversity they bring to the garden throughout the year. Foliage comes in a wide range of colours and there is a conifer for just about every situation in the garden. They are invaluable in that they provide year-round ornamental value, in contrast to many deciduous shrubs which only provide interest for a limited part of the year. Conifers are tolerant of a wide range of conditions, demonstrated by the way they occupy almost all major landscapes from the dark forests of the west coast of Alaska to the centre of the Sahara; the Arctic to the Equator; and lowland savannas by the sea to near the perpetual snow line of the highest mountains.

Conifers overall require little pruning and here at Garden Plants we recommend a trimming in early spring (April-May) to encourage lush, healthy branches the same way we nurture our cultivars. Furthermore, there is a decreased risk of fungal infection when pruned during this period because the bark is more easily damaged during the summer growing season. Summer pruning (especially during hot and dry periods) is not recommended. The majority of conifers cannot re-grow from old wood once it has been pruned too deeply (with the exception of yew plants and leylandii cypress) and will often result in bare and brown patches. It is not recommended to prune more than 1/3 the length at a time to prevent brown patches. Brown patches may also be caused by frost, drought, water logging or fungal infection. Just remember that they’re thirstier than you might expect, that good moisture retention and good drainage are both required, and the over-zealous pruning will cause way more harm than good. Conifers are not heavy feeders; perform a soil test and fertilize according to the needs indicated. Many soils do not require any fertilizer. Garden centers often sell bio-stimulants for conifers that enhance root growth and are beneficial to newly planted conifers. Mulching Conifers can be planted in early spring (March to May) and early fall (September to October). As with all plants, try to plant your conifers on an overcast day when the tree will lose less water through transpiration (the evaporation of water from plants).Conifers offer rich shades of silvery blue, gold, orange, purple, and chartreuse. Many go through seasonal color changes. Bicolor conifers, with two colors on the same needle, can display variegated or patterned foliage. Often hanging like decorative ornaments, cones are produced in various colors and shapes. Grow Confidently with Monrovia Conifers The following are just a few reasons why planting conifers will improve your garden’s ecological footprint: It’s just a case of getting the right soil, the right levels of water and sunlight, enough space for the roots, and a careful eye to ensure that any issues are nipped in the bud.

Conifers can get big, so they like space. Although growing conifers in pots may suit you better, they’re happiest when planted in the ground. It all comes down to their roots – if their roots don’t have space to expand, this can affect the overall health of the plants.Most conifers like an open sunny position, but there are conifers suitable for most positions. See our guides to conifers (and other plants) for wet soils, sandy soils, clay soils and chalky soil. This leads us nicely onto compost type. Conifers need moisture-retentive compost to keep their water levels up. Unfortunately, regular potting compost won’t suffice. For the first couple of winters, it can be helpful to surround the base of the trunk with a straw mat to protect it from cold, harsh winds.

And give them access to some sunlight! Conifers will do well in full sun or partial shade, but they may begin to look sorry for themselves if you place them in full shade. Dig a hole that is 2 to 3 times the width of the root ball and the same depth as the height of the ball (a wide and shallow hole). There are two schools of thought in terms of planting trees and shrubs: one school states that you amend the soil with organic matter and the other says that the tree will have the best chance of survival if you leave the soil alone. The idea behind the second theory is that the plant will be forced to adjust into the native surroundings without supplemental help. As you are moving the plant from one environment (the soil in the container or root ball) into a new one, why not give it a boost by adding at least some compost or equivalent?If the browning affects most or all of the foliage of an individual tree in the hedge, or a tree dies completely, a root disease such as honey fungus or Phytophthora root rot could be responsible. Hedge trimming If you have a hedge made up of two or more predominantly evergreen trees and it grows to more than two metres in height, then this will be classed as a ‘high hedge’. This will then be governed by the Anti-Social Behaviour Act 2003: Part 8. You can find more information about nuisance and overgrown hedges here. Root disease is a conifer killer. These diseases come about when your conifers have wounds close to their base. Root disease can also invade the roots!