Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Contrast Basilicanum Grey (18ml)

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Basecoat the remaining metallic areas of the gun and grenades with Vallejo Mecha Color Steel [ Iron Hands Steel]. Basecoat the lights white and apply contrast: Gryph-Charger Grey for the whites, Gryph-Hound Orange for the turn signals and Baal Red for the rear lights.

Paint the Red, Amber, Green traffic lights with Baal Red, Dorn Yellow and Warp Lightning, respectively. As a saving grace, I found if you just apply a few thin highlights in a similar colour to the Speedpaint you are painting over, the reactivation isn’t much of an issue. Edge highlights with Wild Rider Red and Jokaero Orange over Blood Red Speedpaint Let’s start with the warm colours. Zealot Yellow is a little more orange than Iyanden Yellow, Fire Giant Orange a little more tomato red. Blood Red and Blood Angels Red are almost identical. Slaughter Red has slightly more prominent highlights, whereas Flesh Tearers Red is a little darker. Purple Alchemy is clearly darker than Volupus Pink and should perhaps be thinned with a little bit of Speedpaint Medium. Hive Dweller Purple is also slightly darker than Shyish Purple, but dries much less patchy.I decided to paint the British Napoleonic Highlander Centre Companies box from Victrix for this HTPE, tartan and all. Some might call that foolish, and they would be right. Highlight flesh with thinned Citadel Death Guard Green and the off-white areas with Citadel Karak Stone.

If you read this The Army Painter Speedpaint review so far, you’ll have a good impression of Speedpaints strengths and weaknesses. But how can Speedpaints compete with the other One Coat painting solutions like Instant Colours from Scale 75 and Antithesis paints from Warcolours? Overall I’m happy. They are a little messier than my normal minis mostly because I was pushing to get them done. However even if I slow down it won’t take too long and is easily replicated!Also these guides using colours from a single paint range using that ranges techniques, base coat upwards etc only speak for those invested in that paint range.

Let’s proceed with some more tests and see how Speedpaints apply on a metallic basecoat. I sprayed an Intercessor with Plate Mail Metal from the Warpaints Air range, though you could also use Plate Mail Metal Colour Primer or Leadbelcher Spray. However, there is one thing I don’t like about Speedpaints that no one is really talking about: Even when they’re dried, they will reactivate when you paint over them. Here are some spots I wanted to touch up with Greyseer, and even though I applied multiple coats, the Blood Red Speedpaint keeps coming through, turning the Greyseer pink. I reached out to The Army Painter and they told me it is due to the composition of the medium and most prominent with Speedpaints containing a high amount of yellow pigments. Blood Red bleeding through Greyseer paint on top I also tried to apply a second coat of Speedpaint, here you can see Hardened Leather and Slaughter Red over Blood Red Speedpaint, as well as a wash of Purple Tone, and this turned out fine, as long as you don’t scrub over the dried Speedpaint with too much force. So, you have to think about how you are planning to use Speedpaints and decide if it might be an issue for you or not. Hardened Leather, Slaughter Red, and Puple Tone Wash over Blood Red Speedpaint When I last painted ruins like this, contrast didn’t exist, which mean that doing the beige stone wall took a surprisingly huge amount of effort. My hope was that this time I could use a substantially faster process thanks to the advent of the newer paints. I also wanted to shortcut some of the metal detailing if I possibly could, because I was definitely stung by the memory of how long getting these first lot done had taken. Finally, although the structural parts of the ruins are very similar, the details on the panels are different, with a more industrial theme than the Imperialis ruins. I decided to go with the box art for these and paint them metalic red, figuring that when I put these on the table I can have an Imperialis and a Manufactorum half of the board to make them look a bit distinct (which lines up with some of the other stuff I have for Dense and Difficult pieces nicely). Choosing the colours to use was quite difficult really as the 'Eavy Metal version is pretty much spot on in terms of balance and colour choice. I wanted my version to be different however so I settled for a similar colour palette but tweaked some of the nuances to make it unique and my own.

The next step is to hit the metal bits with Leadbelcher. This means the wall-mounted generators plus the exposed bits where the outer layer of wall has been stripped away.