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Lonely Planet Vietnam: Perfect for exploring top sights and taking roads less travelled (Travel Guide)

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Explore the planet's most surprising adventures with our weekly newsletter delivered to your inbox. Illegal drugs aren’t hard to find on the traveler circuit in Vietnam, but the penalties, if you’re caught by the police, can be severe – even for possession of small amounts. Many travelers have ended up in Vietnamese jails for drug offenses, and the death penalty can be applied in drug cases. If you are inclined to toke while you travel, it’s only a short hop to Thailand, where the consumption of marijuana in food and drinks has been decriminalized for now. 20. Shop responsibly Boats also run to islands offshore, including tropical Phu Quoc in the south, the islands scattered around Nha Trang Bay, the Cham Islands near Hoi An in central Vietnam, and – of course – the myriad islands and outcrops in Halong Bay and neighboring Bai Tu Long Bay. It's possible to reach the Con Dao Islands by boat from Soc Trang, Vung Tau or Can Tho on the mainland.

Remember to plan for the weather. The summer heat and humidity can sap energy, and the heavy rain brought in by the southwest monsoon from May to September and the northeast monsoon from October to April can put a dampener on family fun. All this moisture is heaven for mosquitoes – use repellent with a high concentration of DEET (diethyltoluamide), and minimize exposed skin. While locals are happy to help out, Vietnam is not an easy destination for travelers with disabilities, despite the fact that many locals have mobility issues as a result of injuries sustained during the Vietnam War. If you’re looking to drive a motorbike yourself, it’s best to save it for one of the quieter destinations like Hoi An, Dalat or Phu Quoc. Always wear a helmet, and be aware of the exhaust pipe, which has caused many a leg burn. As motorbikes tend to drive closely to each other, keep your feet pointed inwards and think of wearing closed shoes which offer extra protection for your feet. Spring rolls – an umbrella term for various stuffings rolled inside rice paper shells – take a delectable variety of forms in Vietnam. You’ll find them crispy and fried in the north as nem ran ha noi. In the south goi cuon are soft and light, stuffed with shrimp, pork, fresh vegetables, and cold bun noodles. It was the beaches of Phu Quoc Island and Danang – developed as a playground for GIs during the American War – that put Vietnam on the map for seaside vacations, but both have developed into lively resorts. To find unspoiled stretches of sand, modern-day castaways aim their sights at the kitesurfing beaches around Mui Ne, the island sands of the Con Dao archipelago and long, languorous Hong Van Beach on Co To Island in Bai Tu Long Bay.Halong Bay’s stunning combination of karst limestone peaks and sheltered, shimmering seas is one of Vietnam’s top tourist draws, but with more than 2000 different islands, there’s plenty of superb scenery to go around. Definitely book an overnight cruise and make time for your own special moments on this World Heritage wonder – rise early for an ethereal misty dawn, or pilot a kayak into grottoes and lagoons. If you’re hankering for more karst action, move on to the less touristy but equally spectacular Lan Ha Bay. Most tourists do a one-night cruise, but if you can, consider taking a 2- or even 3-night cruise which allows for getting off typical itinerary with time for kayaking, hiking and swimming. Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park In keeping with Buddhist precepts, many vendors and eateries go vegetarian on the 1st and 15th days of each lunar month; this is a great time to scour the markets and sample dishes that would otherwise be off-limits. Otherwise, be wary. Even vegetable dishes are likely to have been cooked with fish sauce or shrimp paste, so it can be easier to say that you are a vegetarian Buddhist to a potential cook, even if you aren't, as most Vietnamese people will understand what this means. A year in food For an easy day hike, try the 8km (5-mile) hike through the Flower Hmong village of Thai Giang Pho to the Tay village of Na Lo, passing some of the finest rural scenery anywhere in northern Vietnam. For a great overnight route, test your legs on the 10km (6.2-mile) hike through rice paddies, cinnamon forests and misty hills to the Dzao villages of Nam Det and Nam Khanh.

Planning tip: The best time for a beach trip varies as you move around the country. In central Vietnam, skies are brightest from January to August, while December to April is the beach window on the south coast, and northern Vietnam sees plenty of dry days from October to April. 15. Float on the Mekong Delta However, if you crave creature comforts, organized activities and top-end dining – or hire a car and driver to get around – your costs will climb steeply. Here are our top tips for exploring Vietnam on a budget. Time your trip right

Be wary of taxi scams

If your teens love aquatic thrills, the beach strip at Mui Ne is Vietnam’s top hub for kitesurfing. There are several schools where you can learn as a family, with prime wind conditions in late October and April. Other watery diversions include sailing courses, stand-up paddleboarding, surfing classes and the mud spa and swimming pool complex on the hilltop. For teens who prefer pampering, there are plenty more spas along the beach strip. Enjoy the beach scene in Nha Trang Another time to think twice before pulling out your camera is during public demonstrations and political rallies. Critics of the government can face harsh punishments – demonstrations in 2018 against laws allowing the authorities to monitor online communications led to over 100 arrests. Play it safe – steer clear of political gatherings and avoid conversations about politics with local people. 15. Be a fair bargainer More unusual rice-based dishes include banh can, which are tiny, waffle-like rice pancakes. Also, there are banh trang tron (literally, “mixed rice paper”), a student favorite made from a tantalizing blend of dry rice paper, shredded green mango, quail’s eggs, dried shrimp, fresh herbs, crispy shallots, and roasted peanuts. It’s tossed in a dressing of soy sauce, sate sauce, and kumquat juice. Metered taxis in Vietnam are very affordable by global standards. Unfortunately, some drivers in tourist areas refuse to use the meter, and we hear regular stories of meters being rigged to ramp up fares. If you take cabs, rides booked through the Grab app tend to be cheaper than taxis hailed in the street.

Vietnam has a lively drinking culture and a long history of fermenting and distilling – but drinking and eating are usually separate activities. Beer drinking became hugely popular under French rule, and today, each region of the country produces its own lager beers, with Bia Saigon and 333 dominating the south, Huda selling well in Central Vietnam, and Bia Hanoi being the default in the north. If you prefer to travel independently, come with a travel companion, and rent a vehicle with a driver (minivans are available, and can often fit a folding wheelchair) or use open tour buses. Boats and trains, sadly, are not particularly accessible, but with assistance, you may be able to travel in “soft” class carriages without too much trouble. You’ll also find all manner of local and imported whiskies and rums, and home-grown wines from the hills around Dalat or the lowland vineyards of Thap Cham in the south. For alcohol avoiders, fruit juices (including nuoc mia – sugarcane juice), French-style coffee, and tea are also popular. Many of Vietnam’s top hikes are best attempted with local support. The tropical terrain can be challenging, the weather can be unpredictable and you’ll need someone who speaks the local languages to make arrangements for meals and accommodation in hill-tribe communities. If you combine a trek with a village homestay – which we heartily recommend – it’s possible to escape the crowds and find the hospitality and captivating culture that first put Vietnam on the travel map. When visiting Buddhist, Hindu, Confucian and Taoist temples, churches and other religious buildings, dress respectfully – it’s best to cover your legs and upper arms, and you may need to take off your shoes and hat to enter. Never touch anyone on the head, and avoid pointing the soles of your feet towards another person or any Buddhist statues – both signs of disrespect in Buddhist culture. 9. Don’t lose faceA big night out in the hip bars of Hanoi or HCMC can take a big bite out of your travel budget, as well as leaving you with a monster hangover. Choose an evening on the bia hoi – Vietnam’s gently alcoholic, homemade draft beer – and you may be able to avoid both of these inconveniences. Sex tourism is an unwelcome legacy of the American War, but it’s usually easy to spot – and avoid – places where the sex trade takes place. Be wary of bars, karaoke lounges and massage parlors with scantily clad staff and lots of pink or red neon. Note that some hotels refuse to allow foreign men to share rooms with Vietnamese women – which can lead to headaches for genuine couples with an Asian partner. 19. Give drugs a pass The former French Hill station of Sapa is surrounded by mountains so impressive that French colonizers called them the “Tonkinese Alps,” and the surrounding villages of the H'Mong and Dao ethnic minorities have become popular destinations for hikers – and somewhat commercialized in the process. Cat Tien National Park covers 72,000 hectares (177,916 acres) of lowland tropical rainforest that teems with biodiversity. While there are elephants and leopards hiding amid the foliage, you’re more likely to spot primates such as gibbons, pygmy lorises and langurs, alongside reptiles, amphibians and myriad bird species. Planning tip: If you’re bound for Phu Quoc, there’s no need to go via Hanoi and HCMC; numerous Asian airlines offer flights from hubs such as Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur and Seoul, connecting with long-haul flights further afield. 2. Hanoi

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