Games Workshop Citadel Layer: Sotek Green

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The next image shows the first highlight of Pink Horror, and the second finer edge highlight of Emperor’s Children. I glued these into their base, and that later made getting a brush to the inside of the cloak a pain. Even if you’re planning to glue them down, I’d push-fit till the cloaks are done. Contrast Skeleton Horde on the horns, face and feet. Extra coat on the horns to get a pooling contrast effect. Most P3 Paints do not match closely with the old GW range, but a detailed explanation of each paint can be found here: http://www.brushthralls.com/pre-painting-prep/color-theory-10p3.html Normally I use something like basilicanum on metals, but I wanted a very clean and bright silver metal which nuln over iron hands steel gave nicely. Note that you could skip the rakarth highlight on the cloth as it is fairly subtle in the final result.

In our How to Paint Everything series, we take a look at different armies of the Warhammer universe, examine their history and heraldry, and look at several different methods for painting them. With the recent release of the Dominion boxed set, we’re looking at the two factions involved and how to approach painting them.

Unnamed Craftworld by Scott Horras

Beanith: Damn Straight. Ok, 5 Dynasties of Necrons, that’s Sautekh… and the other four which are just as good and competitive? Can do. This stuff is amazing, it shines like actual metal, because it actually is metal. However, there’s some things you need to know about using it. Firstly, it’s metal and metal rusts. If you use water to dilute this, or clean your brushes your models and paint will rust, and not in a cool weathering way. So you have to use alcohol to thin and clean your brushes. I used very high proof Isopropyl. Secondly, if you start using your nice sable brushes you will destroy them, you want to use synthetic brushes otherwise they’ll end up in the bin. Stormhost Silver Layer on anything you want to be particularly shiney. In this instance the bottom half of the sword, the scale mail and the gem in the shield. Once the main colours are done, I finish up the greens. Most of the green is started from a couple of thin coats of Moot Green. For cables and orbs I then wash towards the connection points with Biel Tan Green which is left to dry and then another coat of thinned Moot Green is used to blend the edges away from where the shade has dried. If you wish to highlight this a little further, a mix of Moot Green and Yriel Yellow in a 3:1 ratio works well. Now with my glaze of Pallid Wych Flesh ready, I go over the raised muscle of the skin to make it stand out against the rest of the flesh, but not enough to make it too much of a bright white color to overwhelm the Rakarth Flesh.

Refined: To push this one a bit further I glazed over the gauss bits with a transparent mix of Temple Guard Blue and glazing medium, then glazed white at the edges again and refined some of the electric effect with glazes of white. For my scheme all the metal is done in one go, these days I much prefer to just base coat one metallic colour and then just use washes and contrast to build up the colour I want. In this case I wanted a rich dense feel to the metal for which the density of basilicanum is just fantastic, its effectively multiple coats of nuln in one go! While it is not super obvious in the final product, the agrax helps to give complexity to the tones in the metal that the grey wash does not really give. For the sword I go with a bone look – Rakarth flesh washed with Agrax – and I paint the tubing Moot Green. One of the great things about Necrons is that the rank and file don’t have much colour to worry about – your typical Necron Warrior tends to be mostly grey/silver with the focal point of the model being the stonking great big raygun they carry. The more elite they are, the more colours you’ll want to smoosh on there so to be a bit more comprehensive I’ve gone with some Necron Triach Praetorians.The front cloth and tabard are highlighted with Screaming Skull. Some Ushabti bone mixed with a little bit of brown is put in the recesses. Brown mixed with pale yellow is used to highlight the leather parts.