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With that in mind, avoiding a contaminated drivetrain is key to optimum efficiency and ensuring long-lasting parts. Simon Nash of Green Oil, which makes environmentally friendly lubes, explains: “Wet lube was the original lubricant of choice. Early brands used something like car engine oil. Its consistency trumped basic spray lubricants that were primarily designed to displace water. I use RnR gold, RnR red, Muc Off wet, Muc Off dry. Pretty lazy cleaning and applying but when used even the filthiest chain sets smooth out. I prefer a wax based lube that cleans itself by sheding dirt during use. I make my own concoction using paraffin wax. I reapply every 100 miles whether it needs doing or not and my chains last forever (10,000+ miles). I don't do the hot dip into molten wax method, but instead I use paraffin and Xylene mix to dissolve grated candle wax. I also empty in an equal portion of GT85 for the Teflon/silicone oil/solvent components and to create a thin solvent like solution. I brush this onto my chain libraly to flush out dirt and then wipe with a rag and leave to dry . This results in a very thin coating of wax/teflon lube and a very clean chain each time I appy it. It works out pretty cheap compared to other bike lubes and works exceedingly well, much better than off the shelf lubes I've tried. Having some teflon/silicone oil in with the wax helps keep it working well in cold weather. You will need to experiment with the ratios to use and can easily tweak these by altering the mix after each use until it is just right. I have about 2 litres of the stuff to use up. It needs to be thin.
After a wet ride ideally try to clean your chain and remove as much contamination as you can. Start by wiping down the outside, then you can use a spray degreaser to keep the chain on the bike, or remove it and essentially repeat the submersion bath in chain degreaser or white spirits etc until the liquid remains clear. You can refer to the ZF maintenance guide to help you here. What's the best way to apply drip lube? So if the type of lube is unimportant for efficiency why is there so much choice? Alex Trimnell, Muc-Off’s CEO, has this advice: “Keeping your drivetrain clean and well-lubed is important for a smooth riding experience, but you need to make sure that you use the right lube for the conditions.” Step 6 > Too much lube will cause residue to accumulate around the derailleur pulley wheels and cassette. It is common for riders to assume SMOOVE has worn off and apply more lube before it's required. Break your habit and only reapply when the chain 'sounds' dry. Argus Tuft replied to hawkinspeter: Ta HP - I found it worked as well as the bought stuff.I've moved on to using a home made "candle" of wax with a dash of grease applied to a chain freshly warmed with a heat gun. Any dirt seems to fall away. No cleaning required. Use a suitable heat shield between chain and wheel. SMOOVE Universal Chain Lube was developed to be the longest lasting chain lubricant available – and it is – but every now and then, your drivetrain needs some proper cleaning and this is where SMOOVE Prep comes in.For every chain lubricant listed here, starting with a properly cleaned chain is essential for optimum performance and for you to enjoy its performance benefits. It’s fair to say not everyone will have the inclination or patience for it though. After all, outright efficiency and cleanliness almost certainly matter less to most commuters than the ability for your bike to last a couple of weeks in all weathers without cleaning it. Step 1 > Apply SMOOVE to a clean dry chain (do not use white spirit or petrol to clean as a residue is left behind. A strong degreaser is required such as SMOOVE Prep
SMOOVE takes the best elements of wax-based chain lubes and combines them with the best parts of oil-based lubes without the negatives. So, I have been adding drop wise to the top of the roller for a few years now, the thing that I discovered was that if I did a small drop on each roller and then after doing the full chain doing another drop, it seemed to aid penetration and staying power. With overnight set up and wiping down before riding. I might lose a little more on the rag but it seems to work for me.
Wax lubes are predominantly made of wax, although they'll have a carrier solvent to help the wax to penetrate into the chain. The wax forms a dry film which lubricates the chain and is less likely to attract grime. He was heavily involved in the mountain bike boom of the late 1980s as a racer, team manager and race promoter, and that led to writing for Mountain Biking UK magazine shortly after its inception. He got the gig by phoning up the editor and telling him the magazine was rubbish and he could do better. Rather than telling him to get lost, MBUK editor Tym Manley called John’s bluff and the rest is history. Often these products have names including the word 'Pro', which, I've concluded, apply to the need to have a squad car alongside you with the team mechanic hanging out applying more lube to your chain as you skim along. I asked my wife to provide a similar support role on the Wiggle Northern Angel. She said something about 'Muc-Off', though I may have mis-heard.
Every bike cupboard should have both a wet and dry lube. Dry lubes are for the driest conditions and cleanest chains. We've heard of riders going much further than this without needing to apply more lubricant, but the review deadline is pressing...According to ZFC, the difference between a good and bad lubricant can comfortably amount to five to ten watts at a 250-watt load. These losses increase in magnitude as the load increases, too. If that sounds like too much hassle, a wet lube will help prevent corrosion between rides and provide lubrication in a wide range of conditions. We would recommend simply splitting chain lubricants into hot melt immersive waxes and drip lubricants. I.e lubricants that come out of a bottle as a liquid and go from there based on your requirements. Is it ok to use WD40 on my chain?
After months of testing and development, SMOOVE are proud to announce the launch of SMOOVE Prep. Think of SMOOVE Prep as the conditioner to your shampoo, the milk in your coffee, the seat on your seat post… ok, you get the idea! The second application survived some pretty foul weather, the Dartmoor Devil audax (muddy, grim) and is just running dry after over 300 miles. That's really quite remarkable.” In short, it's up to you whether you want to invest more in a good chain lubricant, which may have a higher initial cost than others. It is worth thinking about, especially for mid and higher-tier groupsets which most performance road bikes generally have.
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The directions say that you can clean the chain with citrus degreaser and a chain cleaning tool or by hand. I really rate Prolink ProGold if you just want a liquid lube that's clean and good in every condition. However, I've recently been using the Muc Off ceramic dry as I had about a bazillion samples to use up and I have to say I'd really forgotten how good it is both on and off road at this time of year. The best bicycle chain lubes get right into the links of your chain to lubricate it, and then stay there. The latest chain lubes include fiendishly clever additives which allow them to coat metal surfaces without attracting crud. They're expensive, but arguably worth the money if you're running an expensive transmission and want to prolong its life. Immersive chain waxing can be a bit of a hassle, but it’s a simple enough process and, as well as saving you money and watts, it could arguably save you time overall too. Simon von Bromley / Immediate Media
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