StopGap Floorboard Draught Excluder - Brown

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Letterbox draught excluder - These are fitted inside your letter box to prevent draughts whilst maintaining relatively easy access for your postie. After searching locally and online, I found that none of the existing solutions were up to the job. The DIY options were messy and time-consuming, and the commercial products used permanent adhesives or sealants. Inspired, I started developing StopGap until I created a product good enough for my own home. Fill the gaps with flexible fillers, clear or brown silicone mastic, decorators’ caulk or similar products. A carpet fitted over your floorboards helps reduce draughts; however there are further steps you can take if you are searching for optimal draught-proofing. If you are on a small budget, then the traditional technique of papier-mâché may be the best option. However, while this provides a cheap and effective solution and covers the potentially draughty gaps in between the floorboards, it does take a lot more time than shop-bought fixes. For a more efficient, but costlier method of draught proofing underneath your carpet, you can apply a gunned silicone sealant to the gaps between the floorboards provided the gaps aren’t enormous! Carpets are soft underfoot and help you feel warmer than hard surfaces such as stone and wood often do. A carpet underlay will add another layer of insulation to your flooring, helping to cut your energy bills. The same goes for vinyl, wood flooring and rugs.

I created StopGap to fill a gap in the market when I found my newly redecorated Edwardian home was colder and draughtier than before. When I realised it was all down to the cold air coming from the gaps in the floorboards I thought finding an effective filler would be easy, but I was wrong. Chimneys and fireplaces: If you don't use your fireplace, you could fit a cap over the chimney pot (best done by a professional) or fit a chimney draught excluder from any good DIY store.

What to look for in a good draught excluder 

Read on to find out what you can do in your own home – from filling in gaps around pipes to insulating your loft hatch. Plus, learn how to keep warm air in without compromising on ventilation. Draught proofing costs and savings Chimney draught excluders are available from most DIY stores. Plastic bags stuffed with other plastic bags also work – but remember to remove it in summer to let the air circulate. Fill in any holes around pipes that lead to a loft or outside, such as extraction pipes on your white goods. Silicone filler should be fine for small gaps, while larger gaps might require expanding polyurethane foam. Controlled ventilation will reduce condensation, maintain a healthy atmosphere and prevent damp and mould growth by letting in air where it is needed. Draughts, however, let in too much air in the wrong place at the wrong time, making draught proofing the cheapest and most effective way to save energy, and money, especially in older buildings How to Draught Proof Your Home 1. Draught Proofing Doors

Both employees and self-employed workers will pay less in National Insurance from next year, Chancellor Jeremy Hunt has announced in today's Autumn Statement. Mark every draught source and visit your DIY shed, or go online, and look for suitable remedial products. Believe it or not, your problem will not be unique — every possible draught has been considered and appropriate products produced. Where to Buy Draught Proofing SuppliesThe right draught excluder for you will depend on your needs - specifically the source of your draught and the type of heat loss you are experiencing. Here are some things to consider when making your choice: Thereafter, the movement of people around the house, moving in and out, and naturally opening and closing windows and doors will deal with other ventilation needs. The difference between draughts and ventilation is one of control. Draughts are uncontrolled, while ventilation is ours to switch on and off at will. Home ventilation in the form of extractor fans and cooker hoods will ensure that condensation is properly dealt with, at source. It’s not advisable to sand original old floorboards. Apart from destroying the patina, the surface can be destabilised – for example wood-boring beetle larvae may have been busy tunnelling below the surface and if you take off the top layer the unsightly, worm-ridden wood will be on view.