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To be fair the only P3 washes I have are flesh and armour so I can't exactly provide a comprehensive assessment, but I really like both of them.
Most of the new Contrasts are both vibrant and a little transparent. This makes them absolutely perfect for near instant plasma weapons. Just be sure to prime white and paint everything except the plasma coils first. This way you don’t risk tainting the pure white base coat on the coils which is the key to this technique. For the blue one, it was just a coat of Frostheart Blue (which is also perfect for ice weapons). I then immediately took a bit of Contrast Medium and wiped away the center where I wanted the white glow to be. That’s it! The green was very similar except I applied Ironjawz Yellow to the white first. Ironjawz Yellow, unlike Bad Moon or Imperial Fist, is much more transparent and behaves like the usual Contrast paints. Once that was dry I applied Striking Scorpion Green and again used Contrast Medium to wipe away the center and push the green towards the recesses. You can do the same thing with Ironjawz Yellow and Magmadroth Orange for a much more chaos-y plasma as well. [Editor’s Note: Holy shit Darcy, this is incredible]After that, it was just Contrast Plaguebearer Flesh on the Plaguebearer with some Contrast Blood Angels Red on the guts. These guys are Age of Sigmar Bladegiests and Ghouls with various Genestealer, Hormagaunt and GSC acolyte bits crudely welded on with big messy blobs of greenstuff. Everything is given a spray of wraithbone to start, and then a heavy wash of druchii violet. Before that dries, take a sponge and randomly dab bits off – not just off the top, but getting the corner of the sponge into the crevices as well, letting it go where it will to really pull the wash unevenly.
Turns out zombies still shamble the grim darkness of the 41st millennium, albeit in a more colorful, cheerful form. Specifically, I’m talking about the Death Guard’s Plague Zombies, who tend to allow for a lot of brig combinations of greens and yellows while also having lots of tentacly appendages. You can get as bright and colorful as you want with them, or keep them more subdued and realistic. I chose the former. That was then highlighted with a mix of purple, brown and grey, to dull out the browns previously washed over them. And for a final highlight I mixed in some ivory into the the last step on the skin.The bases were GW texture paint, that after the overspray from the original airbrushing, were washed with the same dull green I used on the metals, spotted washes of Vallejo dark green, some additional browns pushed around the edges of the greens and then all washed with GW. Nuln Oil “Gloss” to give the ground the damp-swamp feel. These Age of Sigmar Deadwalker Zombies are for my Hyshian Gravelords. I wanted to go with a look of dried out leathery zombies, reminiscent of Moorliechen or bog bodies. Paint the wood and any straps with Citadel Contrast Wyldwood and any ropes/bandages/feathers with Citadel Wraithbone. Next, do your non-flesh colors. I used Balor Brown for the hair, Warpstone Glow for the eyes, and Wazdakka Red for the tastefully placed rags.
Paint the ropes with Citadel Contrast Flesh-Tearers Red and any Wood or other straps in Citadel Contrast Wyldwood. My zombie starts with a solid undercoat of VGC Elfic Flesh. I’d advise a coat more than I put on, as the unevenness I left in bits has to be patched up later. This is a very pale, slightly green/yellow tinged flesh tone that I don’t often use for actual flesh, but paints a mean zombie. Any similar cool off white such as Pallid Wych flesh will do admirably, or you can easily mix your own with very little paint. Mutant Innards (Tongues, Tentacles, Exposed Muscle, Blood Vials): – Base with Daemonette Flesh. – Wash with Guilliman Blue (if available) or 50/50 Tallasar Blue/Contrast Medium – Carefully Highlight with Warpfiend Grey. – Edge Highlight with Slaanesh Grey. Gravel: Mechanicus Standard Grey, Drybrush Corax White, Wash with a 1:1 mix of TAP Dark Tone / Strong Tone Ink I also painted a Wargames Foundry soldier with an overcoat on using Games Workshop Nighthaunt Gloom to make it look like a spectral soldier. In Dracula’s America he’ll be a ‘Vengeful Shade’ that the necromancer can summon and send at the enemy posse.
Tones
For tongues I’ll usually do the Squid Pink to finish it off, gives it that nice pink tongue look. The same will work for tentacles or other fleshy growths that you want to distinguish from the main mass. But really any colors would work just as well – I just like to start dark at the base and move to light at the tips. I did some nice Blue tongues in the same style on my warlord for the Astradus campaign. I don’t want to say his name, he’s a very litigious misfit. Horns, Claws, and Teefs
For the ridged sections between any carapace plates, basecoat with Xereus Purple and shade with Druchii Violet Blue – Kantor Blue is a rich and vibrant blue color that can be used to create a complementary color combo with Coelia Greenshade. Together, they create a bold and eye-catching look that can add a pop of color to any miniature model. Basecoat with thin layers of this colour, taking care not to build up so much paint that the details are obscured. Slow and steady wins the race! I’ll be honest, I wasn’t really a fan of Pylar Glacier when I first tried it. Unlike all of the other paints in the new range, it is extremely runny to the point where it only flows into the recesses and doesn’t tint the raised portions at all (Brimstone Horrors for example).For the tentacles some of them have, I first put a small ring of the flesh contrast paint around the base of them. I then grabbed Vulpus Pink and blended with the flesh contrast to create a gradient between the zombie itself and whatever demonic thing controls that tentacle. Vulpus Pink is one of my favorite contrast colors and I try to find any use for it I can. You might want to do another thin coat of Vulpus on the upper half of each tentacle to make the color more intense.
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