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Games Workshop Citadel Base: Zandri Dust

£9.9£99Clearance
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Now here is the area you can put a little flair and extra colors. For my specialists, I wanted them to feel like part of my army, so I kept largely the same color palette, just adding dashes of other colors into the mix, and changing the locations to make them look special without making them look like they don’t belong. There are currently 60 paints in the range which have been designed to colour as much of a spread of the colour spectrum as possible.

Answer is… run real light on infantry, convert lots of monsters and vehicles and Rough Riders and Ogryns, and lose plenty of games! At least that’s my technique. Closest thing to ‘real’ advice would be “paint in squads of ten, break them up with fun centerpiece models.”

Small bits of gravel were added in front bottom area and on the greenstuff with superglue. Sand was put down with PVA glue over the green stuff and also under the ledge and around the bits of gravel. Then agrellan earth was spread across the front area that was still bare base. Step 6 – Drybrush Tyrant Skull. Tread carefully with this, as too much will stand out. Get some Tyrant Skull on your brush, wipe the vast majority off, and drybrush the base (including the stones) only until you just start seeing the paint become visible, and then immediately stop for that area. This will likely only happen after a couple strokes. Next come the brown on the boots and patches. for the brown skinned troopers, I will also do the hands and faces at the same time. The boots need to come before the armor so you can be sloppy around the shin plates. White Armor: Like the rank and file Valhallans, I painted these whole models in Steel Legion Drab first. The armor was based with Ulthuan Grey (my secret weapon, holy shit this color is so useful) and down in two coats. I washed the recesses with Agrax Earthshade, then highlighted up with Corax White. A mix of Dark Blue Grey and Turquoise was used to highlight the edges and raised areas on the end of the sword.

Duncan’s basic but beautifully executed style made the forbidding word of miniature painting accessible to more people than ever before. Using only a handful of colours and a few brushes, Duncan would deftly create masterfully-painted miniatures with ease – and would impart his knowledge to you as he did so. Cloth: Citadel Screamer Pink basecoat, Druchii Violet Wash, Mephiston Red layer, Wild Rider Red edge highlight. Not pictured is the giant pile of Tabletop Adapters I’ve had to buy when Jon Kilcullen asked if the base size was correct for Plaguebearers (Pro tip, it wasn’t) On the bright side, it’s now easy to see which model belongs to which squad of 20 or 30 Plaguebearers based on the ring colour.Imperial Guard: The Imperial Guard is the primary army of the Imperium in Warhammer 40K, comprising a vast and varied collection of soldiers, tanks, and artillery. The Zandri Dust paint is a great choice for adding realism and detail to these miniatures, allowing you to create a convincing, weathered look that captures the sense of a battered, war-torn army. The Zandri Dust paint is ideal for highlighting the edges and details of Imperial Guard miniatures, giving them a worn, battle-hardened appearance.

Metallics: Leadbelcher, a wash of Nuln Oil, and an occasional highlight of Stormhost Silver was all it took. Easy. I don’t usually paint true metals as I find them irritating and the metallic particles get everywhere like a glitter bomb. I get a lot of requests for how to paint them though, so I thought I’d record this Iron Warrior for my Patreon.Anywhomst, here’s how to paint these not-quite Soviets who are more Red Alert 3 than Red Scare in a very efficient paintscheme that focused largely around 3 shades of brown: The tank and the turret were the biggest and most involved subassembly. I painted the turret separately gluing a piece of sprue to the inside to act as a holder. As I mentioned, this is a fantastic horde base. It doesn’t require any real crafting or planning, and can easily be done in batches. If you don’t like how one particular base turned out, don’t throw it away. Go ahead and use it, and try different paint/wash/drybrush ratios on the next base. Once they are sitting next to 50+ other models with similar bases, they all blend together and any imperfections are entirely lost. Wash Vallejo Charred Brown, leaving the base of the horn untouched, and smooth the wash line with water. Let dry thoroughly.

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