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Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Layer Wild Rider Red

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Similarly with the plasma pistol, I first paint the plasma coils in white. Then with my detail airbrush I spray white around the coils (you can also do this by hand with thinned white paint). I spray Frostheart Contrast paint over the area. I go over the plasma coils again in white and a thinned layer of the blue contrast so that it’s brighter than the surrounding area. Finally I highlight the corners of the plasma coils with white. For the basecoats of the metallics I use Pro Acryl Bronze and Pro Acryl Dark Silver. These have amazing coverage and go down in one coat over white with no issues. Lastly is the leather details which I paint with Wyldwood contrast paint for a nice dark brown.

I painted the off-yellow skin in slightly different ways on my Barbgaunts, Psychophage, and Von Ryan’s Leapers – employing various combos of Plaguebearer Flesh and thinned-down Nazdreg Yellow over a Wraithbone base, with highlights ranging from Dorn Yellow to Flayed One Flesh – but they all still look like closely-related beasties. I’ve got yet another approach in mind for my Termagants…The model receives a wash of Army Painter Soft Tone followed by a drybrush of Vallejo Game Air Bonewhite and a second drybrush of Vallejo Model Color Gloss White. This is the same method I use for the bone color in my Primaris Marines and will serve as the foundation for the colors on top. Using the thinned air paint creates an interesting glaze effect which both highlights the edges and tints the entire model. I have had a great deal of fun experimenting with using various real-world colour schemes that can be found in nature for my Tyranids. I’ve so far attempted schemes based on the following: Somehow it took Games Workshop until the end of the 2010s to realize one important fact: People like pets. 40k saw the release of Kill Team: Rogue Trader, which included an extremely good boy, while Age of Sigmar has embraced Khornedogs, Gryph-Hounds, and Aetherwings for the Bloodbound and Stormcast factions. Where they’ve really outdone themselves is, as is so often the case, in Necromunda, where every gang has had an associated pet to accompany their gang leaders. Even Enforcers are getting in on the fun! Credit: Games Workshop Evil Sunz Scarlet in a smaller crescent atop the previous one, leaving space for the Khorne Red towards the center There’s other little details that can be painted but this is my stopping point for a non-display miniature. This is the general workflow I use for most of my miniatures and I find that it is a nice mix of speed and detail for me. Dylan Gould’s Method

If you’re painting a character, or just want to take it a bit further, a good next highlight is Scalecolor SC-38 Aldebaran Red. Troll Slayer Orange: Troll Slayer Orange is a bright orange color that can be used to create a split-complementary color scheme with Wild Rider Red. This color can be used to create a sense of movement and energy on the miniature, as well as to break the monotony of the red.

I’m also highlighting the reds at this stage, doing blends of Khorne Red with Mephiston Red. The White parts get washed with Apothecary White, which we’ll then revisit, shading in the spots in-between feathers with Nuln Oil and doing some extra highlights with Reaper Pure White. The unit was undercoated with White Scar Spray before being given an all over wash with Skeleton Horde which was highlighted with Flayed One Flesh. Softer, fleshier, bits between joints and the tentacles were then painted in Fireslayer Flesh Contrast paint and highlighted with Jokaero Orange . Bony carapaces, spikey bits, teeth and blades were first painted with Garaghak’s Sewer and then raised up with Catachan Flesh before a final highlight of Mournfang Brown . Lastly the compound eyes were painted with Baal Red Contrast paint, washed with Agrax Earthshade and then given a subtle dash of ‘Ardcoat gloss varnish to make them glisten. I envision the forces from my Tyranid splinter fleet absorbing bio-mass, adapting themselves to the warzone and changing their colours to match the environment. To this end I opted for a very ‘naturalistic’ scheme reminiscent of many insects and arachnids in our world – namely earthy tones with a lighter underbody and darker areas on any hard plates and carapaces.

Red is, bar none, the hardest color to make look good on power armor. It's worse than yellow, there, I said it.Reikland Fleshshade wash all over the skin, including the mouth where we’ll just leave that shading as is Gloss varnish the whole thing. We’re going to work on this at the same time as the reds for a moment, so we’re doing steps 6-9 to apply decals and a pinwash.

Three coats of Daler Rowney FW Crimson acrylic ink. Each coat brings more vibrance to the red, so do as many as you feel you need. If you want more of the purple tones from the official GW schemes, try using either Process Magenta or Purple Lake as your first layer, or mixing it into the Crimson. Our readers might be surprised to learn that not all painting is done on models! I painted this picture of my beloved yet troublesome cat, Mini, at a “drink wine and paint stuff” event hosted by my employer in what I think was the Spring of 2012. This picture was taken in the Summer of 2011, when Mini was still a wee kitten. The remaining miniatures from the box were painted up to match my existing Tyranid force. I have quite a large army of these guys already, as well as a subservient Genestealer Cult, so I’ll be dropping these straight into that collection – which actually featured in the Crusade section of the previous Tyranids codex. For their carapaces I used Karandras Green and applied Doomfire Magenta to their fleshier parts, while claws were painted with Blood Angels Red and the visible brain-like parts had Frostheart applied to them. I went old school on the basing and used a layer of Armageddon Dust which was then painted over with Warboss Green , washed in Biel-Tan Green and drybrushed with Niblet Green. Charlie: Custom Splinter Fleet

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With some kitchen towel laid out, give your brush some test blasts with your airbrush. Vary the distance between the brush and the towel and your airbrush and the brush until you find a level of spatter that works for you. You don’t want to head straight into doing this on your model or you risk wiping out a lot of your work.

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