Games Workshop Citadel Bombe sous-couche - Aérosol Contrast Wraithbone

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However, the GW Mechanicus Standard Grey, the Testors Gray and the Rustoleum/Krylon gray primers are quite a bit darker. They are kind of rogues on this list. I wouldn't use them as first choices to use with the Contrasts. Put it this way. The Contrasts weren't TECHNICALLY designed to be put over a gray that dark, but to a certain point you can use gray and it will work. But there's a cutoff point. The three I have on the list are about as dark as you can go with a gray primer and still have the Contrasts actually still be able to be show up on them. Anything darker and it would probably cancel out many if not most of the Contrast colors in the range. Lastly, I finished the stone with a lighter drybrush of Pallid Wych Flesh to catch the corners and give it a final highlight. To start, I primed the doorway with Wraithbone spray and then touched it up with some more Wraithbone out of the pot.

Note particularly what he does with the green ink. As I said I don't think that would work with a Contrast because the Contrast would kill most of the Zenithal underneath. The thinness of the ink is what allows the Zenithal to show up. Contrasts might be too strong for this. Citadel Contrast paints are therefore the most expensive miniature paint on the market – by far! The Army Painter and Vallejo paints cost less than half per ml. Unfortunately I've already started painting and spraying stuff with wraithbone, otherwise I would simply go with an alternative which is cheaper and better available. Wow, well the best answer I can give is that with some Contrast colors there's almost no difference, with others there is "some" difference.I've started speed painting a new army using mostly contrast paints. Apparently, GW still can't manage to get their s... together and has horrendous delivery problems with their products, especially paints. You could even experiment with painting the darker Contrast over “medium” base colours, for example, Wyldwood (dark brown) over Baneblade Brown (medium khaki/light brown) for a really deep dark brown. Or mix your Contrast paints with a lot of Contrast Medium or Lahmian Medium to use them as a wash or glaze. I'm with you on the "airbrush look", I'm not a fan of it either. I much rather prefer washes and dry brushes over other colors.

Wash your brushes a lot, as the high-pigmented paint will easily creep up into the ferrule of your brush. First and most importantly, a good spray primer should be easy to apply, cover well, and dry out thin and smooth so that no detail is lost. There should be some leeway if conditions such as humidity or temperature are not ideal, or if you accidentally spray on too much paint. Good self-levelling properties are important. On this handy comparison sheet, I demonstrate several different approaches of applying Citadel Contrast paint, straight from the pot or thinned down with Contrast or Lahmian Medium, as well as comparisons with similar washes and inks:Most people use both terms and mean the same thing. But the difference between primer and spray paints is that “real” primers contain a solvent that creates a stronger bond with the surface of the miniature and thus provides better adhesion and higher resistance. Spray paints do not contain solvent, or less of it. The pigments used for Contrast paints are really strong and vibrant. In comparison to Citadel Shades or other washes, Contrast Paints have a slightly higher viscosity, which means they are not as “runny”. I recommend washing your brushes a lot when using them, as the heavily pigmented paint easily creeps up into the ferrule of your brush, where it might dry and make short work of the bristles. Thanks for your detailed answer! Sounds like grey with a brighter tone might be interesting for zenithal primer.